log in another 6 hours of surfing today. waves absolutely perfect again!
took out Mai-san for day 2. i didn’t want to tell her but the waves were actually bigger than what we surfed yesterday. i knew she would be scared before we even paddled out so i told her it was knee high. haha. but it was still overhead and pretty big. after her nerves calmed down, she started surfing perfectly. i explained over and over that panicking won’t do you any good. it actually makes the situation worst because your body freezes up. so after a few panic attacks, she shook it off and surfed with confidence. almost getting barreled on this wave.
when a big wave comes, i tell everyone to throw their board and dive under. it’s just way easier, but kind of freaky to do it for the first time. this is how dark it gets under a huge wave breaking over your head. i call it “the dark room.”
seen my little friend all over today. kept on popping up all around us.
towards the end of the session, Mai-san was surfing with a big smile on her face. today was a big obstacle she overcame in fear. i told her after today, surfing big waves will be a lot easier now. just don’t forget to have confidence in yourself. you can do anything!
if you survive surfing big waves like this for the first time, you become a stronger person. it’s that simple. thank you Mai-san for never giving up. well, you almost did but i wouldn’t let you because i knew you could do it. haha.
always good to have your first acai bowl in hawaii.
i ordered the hot pastrami sandwich. i just love the food at the Diamond Head Health Bar.
then went to check out the waves at diamond head. it was so beautiful!
waves everywhere!
then went to pick up Takashi-san for an afternoon super session. big waves rolling through and lots of waves ridden. i think i’ll sleep at 7pm tonight. good night.
