Danger in Paradise

274

had a great surf session this afternoon. super clean with the new south swell arriving. should be good all week! yeah!
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such a sad story in kalihi. this little mom and pop shop robbed 3 times in the past 5 days.
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a couple guys walk in with masks, then try to get the cash out of the register.
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one of the robbers grabs the 76 year old store owner in a chokehold and chokes her until she passes out. this is very sad to see something like this. and so disturbing to see this happening right in honolulu.
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i hope they catch all these guys. then send them to the philippines and let the new president there decide what to do with them. and i’m sure it won’t be good.
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my tv i bought 8 years ago finally broke. it was a 40″ display and cost me $1,100 back then. so i threw it away today and bought a new one.
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i went to the store this morning and was surprised to find a 50″ on sale for only $370! score! so i came home and hooked it up. then got too frustrated trying to set it up. way too complicated!!! and they call this a smart tv? are you joking?
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was stressing out a little after not getting the tv to work, so i went to do some yoga. this is my teacher that’s been teaching me the right way to do these amazing poses. then went to surf right after and had an awesome session. tv still doesn’t work, but who cares? i give up. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide