omg, i spent 9 hours at the beach yesterday!! no wonder why i’m so fried!
so good to surf with Abe-san again. he only surfs when he comes to hawaii so i couldn’t believe how good he got. i asked Abe-san, “how do you get good at surfing if you don’t surf while you’re in japan?” he answered “i surf in my dreams.” haha.
it’s the first time i met a surfer that surfs in his dreams. getting better and better every time he comes to hawaii. awesome job Abe-san!
i’m going to start to surf in my dreams more often. then maybe i can really do a hang 10 sometime soon.
long boarded and short boarded yesterday. it feels great just riding a wave!
thank you Abe-san for the wonderful surf! i am very impressed with your surfing level as it goes up and up. you should write a book on how to get better without actually surfing. that’s amazing!
had a great black bean seafood noodle lunch.
i love this place!
and just as i was speaking about root beer shave ice, Abe-san wanted to eat it. he’s one of the very few japanese i know that likes root beer. after a hot surf session, delicious noodle lunch, the root beer shave ice was the icing on the cake.
