the other day was pretty small so i decided to snorkel around the lineup. maybe find some fins or even a gopro. as a wave would come in, i would wait underwater just watching all the action. seen a guy full on hit the reef!
after he fell, he was trying to get back on his surfboard. from the top, it looks like there is a lot of water. but from under, this is reality. i never ever take my friends surfing here, but if they go out without me, the current will take them to this exact place. it happens all the time.
imagine catching a wave and diving off your surfboard. yeah, your head will hit the reef for sure. so to all the people i surf with, please listen when i say “stay close by me all the time.” if you go off on your own and drift to this reef, the chances of you getting hurt are pretty high.
no gopro find this day, but found a nice pendant. i have no idea what it is, but i’m sure somebody will be happy with it.
i swear my next job will be a treasure hunter.
then came above water for a little while and watched some beautiful surfing!
last, check out this video of Shane Dorian. i think this is the perfect way to raise a child. i’m sure he would probably get arrested for bad parenting if this were japan, but this is the true hawaiian style of living. lucky kid!
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuCidZGmEWg[/youtube]
