5.5 hours surfing today. another beautiful day and more beautiful stories.
had an awesome morning with Rikita-san. super stoked to be surfing with him again and watching wave after wave of perfect long rides.
Rikita-san is a really cool guy. just a hard core surfer that loves to surf. we have a great time surfing and talking about all kinds of things.
coming from Nara-ken where the nearest beach is 2 hours away, it must be nice to be able to surf right in front of your hotel right here in honolulu. and must be even nicer to surf clean water and perfect waves.
everybody enjoying this beautiful sunny day in paradise!
i took my longboard out today because i felt like doing yoga. the most natural place for a yoga mat.
i talk to yogis from all over the world and we all agree that yoga has changed our body, mind, and souls. and also made me a very easy relaxed person. just don’t get me mad. haha.
Rikita-san looks like a MMA fighter. a super strong body and super strong mind.
my favorite chicken long rice pho. so delicious.
thank you for the wonderful morning Rikita-san. great job surfing. see you tomorrow afternoon as we attack more and more waves!
then went to pick up the girls in the afternoon. they came straight off the airplane from japan. first time to hawaii, and first time surfing. we surfed, ate, ate, and ate. it’s incredible how much energy these 2 young ladies had. i’m totally sunburnt and drained now so the stories will continue tomorrow. goodnight for now.
