for the past 3 days, i took 3 different gentlemen and 1 lady to the peak of their limits. challenging each and every one to something they wouldn’t even imagine. this morning, it was Iwasaki-san’s turn. when i picked him up, he said “the waves are big yeah?” i said “no, the waves are huge!” haha. i could tell he was nervous because today was going to be the biggest challenge of his life.
i keep on telling Iwasaki-san, “timing is everything. you might make it out, you might not. either way, we are going to make one way or another. so get ready to throw your board and dive under mountains of foam.” luckily, he made it over this wall of water. but that wasn’t always the case. haha.
i also told Iwasaki-san “you will catch the biggest wave of your life today.” this is the proof! i bet his friends would never believe it, but now they have to. haha. imagine surfing for so many years of your life and you finally get to ride the biggest wave ever. i think that’s amazing.
this is how i learned to surf big waves. learning by experience. you have to feel it, to understand it. Iwasaki-san understood every pound of water crashing down on his head.
i think he caught 8-10 waves and made every single drop. absolutely perfect big wave surfing.
our last ride in. super stoked to survive. haha.
great job surfer dude!
then went to eat some healthy food for lunch. as we were driving home, i told Iwasaki-san, “you are going to sleep tonight with a big smile on your face.” he replied “yes i am.”
i ate pho 3x this week so i tried the lemon grass chicken today. it was excellent.
then went to wash everything down with a cool shave ice from Waiola.
then went to pick up Kaori-san for an amazing afternoon session. another surfer that rode the biggest wave in her life. more beautiful photos tomorrow. going to sleep because have another huge day tomorrow. can’t wait for the morning! goodnight.
