Surf, Tube, Turtle, Surf, Eat

254

i woke up this morning and felt like doing something totally different. i checked the waves and thought “um, maybe Three’s?” so i pull up there at 8am and paddle to the lineup. i haven’t surfed there in over 10 years so i was super excited. it’s more of a longboard spot but if you can get one on a shortboard, it’s by far the best right hander in hawaii. luckily, i see a couple of my longboard friends out. they said “hey kirby, i will block the waves for you. just go on anything.” so stoked! i caught 5 perfect sets in an hour and was so happy. couple of barrels and lots of off the lips. bumped into many of my japanese friends out there too. i was so happy!
Screen Shot 2016-06-24 at 1.20.58 PM
then i go back out in the afternoon because i knew it would still be good. and yes, it was perfect! got barrels again! i forgot how good that wave can get. and yes, i’ll be surfing there much more from now on.
IMG_1198
passed in and out of the harbor a few times today. seen a nice wave coming and Reid started to paddle for it so i parked the boat and watched. check out the spray Reid is throwing! half way up to diamond head! always happy to see my friends ripping!
IMG_1210
then today was finally the perfect day to try out my new tow. i had no idea how it was going to work so it was kind of exciting setting it up.
Screen Shot 2016-06-24 at 1.14.45 PM
then i got my test pilots. told them, “hold on for your dear life!” haha. i couldn’t believe they trusted me? i would never get into something like this if a guy like me was driving. haha.
Screen Shot 2016-06-24 at 1.15.24 PM
you should have seen me laughing my brains out! haha. i was flying around in the ocean watching the kids screaming so loud. one of the kids even flew out the back. i couldn’t stop laughing. and yes, they had a blast. so stoked on my new toy. hundred times more exciting than any ride at disneyland. just ask the kids.
Screen Shot 2016-06-24 at 1.18.41 PM
then i gave the kids masks and said, “ok, here is my turtle spot. go find them.” and yes, they found them.
IMG_1227
after a little snorkeling, i gave the kids surfboards and said “go surf Three’s. it’s perfect!” and yes, it was perfect and they were so happy.
IMG_1235
then had a wonderful dinner. in fact, the best dinner i had in a very long time. i wanted to try this new restaurant for a while. went tonight with very low expectations. and it turned out to be my new favorite restaurant. this is the starting off salad.
IMG_1239
the curry was amazing too. everything we ordered was amazing.
IMG_1241
Alyssa and i decided not to blog this restaurant. this place is a hidden gem in hawaii. and if you find it, you probably won’t blog it either. some secrets are better kept secrets. nice to catch up with you Alyssa. thanks always for the laughs.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide