somebody asked me “why do you do so many blogs?” my answer was “because so many things happen in my life. each and everyday is full of adventure. if i don’t post the photos, it will all be lost. and because i’m getting older, i’m forgetting more and more. so this is a way for me to remember my amazing moments each and every day.”
why did i surf at Three’s? well, this swell was at a weird angle. bowls wasn’t that good, neither was big rights. Three’s on the other hand, loves this swell direction. a totally different crowd, a totally different vibe. it’s like a mix of ala moana and waikiki. surfing a different wave with different people made me feel like i was on a surf trip. and it was a great surf trip.
some of the waves were head high barreling. and it was those waves i was waiting for. my friend Bruce gave me 2 sets that made my summer. imagine getting barreled and doing 5 off the lips after. i don’t have to imagine anymore.
and just watching the old schoolers loving life to the fullest. you can’t ask for a more perfect life than this.
and i love watching the kids enjoying nature, rather than their iPhones. this is an application you won’t find at the apple store.
i let the kids run wild in the sea. kind of let them learn and figure things out on their own. of course i’m keeping an eye on them, but i’m also keeping my other eye on food.
i’ve been free diving a lot without weights or a wetsuit these days. it just feels more free than it use to. and when i’m laying on the ocean floor, i feel like i’m one of the wildlife. i can’t describe how good it feels.
coming up for a breath. wish i didn’t have to.
coming up with a fish. why not.
so yes, i surf, dive, shoot, and hunt. small waves, big waves, or no waves, i’m always a happy guy. if you can connect with nature, you can feel things you never felt before. and i guarantee you will fall in love with it.
