getting off an international flight and going straight to the beach is hard core. i do that all the time so i understand the feeling. and the feeling is so great! Kosugi-san was super stoked!
and being that japan is in rainy season now, i bet it must feel good to be in paradise.
surfing is my life, the rest are details.
thank you Kosugi-san for the wonderful afternoon. in my eyes, you are a true surfer! surf/yoga everyday is an amazing hawaiian vacation. please enjoy every minute of it!
it’s crazy how close and how easy it is to get to the outer islands. taking the airplane is fun, but i prefer taking Mayuki. next time, that’s what i’ll do.
and can’t wait to pull up to my favorite beach, pitch up a tent, start a bbq, and live off the ocean.
then call cousin Jimmy again and live off the land.
after all these years of traveling, i finally know what i want. i want to live a simple life with my family and friends. that’s what makes me happy. nothing else matters.
