wow! yesterday afternoon was so beautiful. the waves were perfect and nobody was out! so stoked to see Kosugi-san surfing better and better. last week when we surfed, we made a little adjustments and now it’s paying off.
she’s surfing so good. no falling, just riding perfect waves like this from start to finish. almost getting barreled on this wave. i love this photo.
and the biggest smile on the way back out. a great feeling!
we’ve been having some good timing. seems like before we paddled out, the waves were junk so that’s why nobody was out. then we surfed for 2.5 hours and it got crowded after. but we were done. lucky!
great job Kosugi-san. see you again this afternoon. and congratulations on your first head stand at yoga. and congratulations on your biggest and best wave surfing. what a perfect day for you yesterday!
and thank you very much for the snack you got for me! the pickled dry mango was tasting great on my drive home.
this guy was taking photos at bowls the other day when i went to sneak over for a wave. it was a perfect one!
gosh, at times like these, i wish i was on my shortboard. haha.
but hey, surfing is surfing. just to be riding a wave on top of the ocean is a fantasy! more swells on the way with this beautiful weather continuing every single day. i just love summer time in hawaii!
