today i told Asayama-san, “hey, you go catch waves by yourself. and i won’t help you decide which ones to catch today.” he looked at me and said “really?” he paddled out very nervously, then after his first wave, he paddled back out and said “i’m so happy!” haha.
timing the wave and deciding which one to ride takes a lot of wave knowledge. this morning, Asayama-san timed it perfectly and caught every wave without me saying “go, go, go!” now it’s a totally new level of surfing for this young man.
a very happy man! good surf, good pho, and good time!
then went to pick up Shimada-san this afternoon. she just came off a plane from japan but was ready to surf. and once she caught her first wave, it was smiles all afternoon long. waves came up so big tomorrow! see you early morning Shimada-san!
i woke up this morning and watched a video of a black man get shot by a policeman. it was shocking.
then another black man got shot in another state. yes, all in america! totally shocking! i left my house thinking to myself “gosh, somebody is going to retaliate.”
sure enough, i get home and watch the news. four policemen got shot dead right in the city of dallas. and sad to say, this probably won’t be the end of this. if you can’t trust policemen in america, we will have an internal war. and that’s a scary thought knowing how many people own guns.
