had an awesome day 2 surf with Shimada-san this morning. the waves were big and the nerves were high. it was an amazing morning!
just to make it out on a day like today is pretty hard. you have to time it right in-between the big sets. and when you get out and catch your first wave, all the nerves are gone.
and the paddle back out is so rewarding.
great job Shimada-san! get some rest because we’re going to do it all over again on sunday. big waves and big smiles!
went to try out this new cafe that opened up. heard it’s really good but when we got there, they cancelled breakfast???
but every thing else looked good.
instead we went to Andy’s and ate the best homemade sandwiches on the island. never disappointed at Andy’s in manoa.
then picked up Asayama-san for an afternoon big wave session. big nerves and big waves. haha.
then was invited to another small family party at the moniz house. small turned into big again. good to finally see all the kids at home.
left my house at 7am and just came home at 9:30pm. i’m so beat. goodnight.
