it’s been a few days since i’ve been surfing with Asayama-san. want to take things slow on the longboard because of the long paddles and long rides. now, he’s perfected it.
and also trying to practice diving under big waves. almost perfected it but not quite yet. haha.
short boards are easy to duck dive. i just love the feeling so much!
then it was time for Asayama-san to shortboard. i give him a 6’8 and because of all the practice he’s been getting, it was almost too easy for him.
short boarding takes a lot more effort to get a wave. but once you get one, the feeling under your feet is amazing.
remember the fish i caught when the tiger shark came to check it out? well, instead of feeding it to the tiger shark, i protected it, filleted it, and we had our after surf sashimi and IPA beer. the best way to close out a day.
then went to play with my grand nephews. watching them feeding the ducks.
cool to see the albino duck. i felt like eating it but my nephews would never forgive me if i did that.
i’m so happy to see Kelia Moniz back home. she’ll be here for a week surfing and working hard. hope you can see her around.
and while the party just got started, i had to be the first to leave and come home. had so much work to catch up on before i slept, and had to wake up at 4am for another full day of surfing! oh well, another beautiful day ahead!
