after many sessions on teaching Asayama-san on how to be calm surfing big waves, yesterday finally paid off. i was laughing so hard watching him dive under some barreling waves.
and perfectly coming up. he made it look way to easy.
and also watching Asayama-san riding some big glassy waves all by himself. watching the confidence going up and up. and watching the body getting bigger and stronger.
when i get 67 years old, i hope to have a body like his. a true inspiration for so many people. it’s never too late to start surfing and turn your life around.
drove through kewalos and seen a lucky charter boat come in. nice marlin!
then went to hang out at kewalos. i gave Asayama-san the binoculars and told him to watch and learn. the islands best surfers gather here in the evenings so lots of experience right in front.
then hung out with my sister, friends, nephews, and niece. Josh, Kelia, and Seth Moniz. all world champions.
watching and learning is very important. then you can go apply it in your next surf session. i’m pretty sure Asayama-san will be surfing much better this afternoon.
leaving the beach, Asayama-san told me that so many of his dreams came true. meeting Kelia was one, but hanging out at the beach local style was another. so much aloha in the air. an amazing evening.
