Lucky You!

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i keep on telling everybody to relax. if you can relax instead of panicking, your life will much better. not just surfing, but everything. so every single day, i’ve been using different techniques on getting Asayama-san prepared mentally. and one of the best ways is to hope a huge wave breaks on his head. and after having this happen so many times, you tend to be a little more and more relaxed.
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look at this beautiful wave! waves this size is no problem for Asayama-san anymore. he paddles out by himself, and paddles into waves like this by himself. amazing progress.
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always happy and smiling on the way in. the perfect ending again.
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went to ala moana shopping center yesterday and seen so many people standing around the center stage. every one of them on their cell phones looking at the same thing. what the heck is everybody doing? i’m guessing it’s the new pokeman craze that i have no clue about? and i’m not interested in it at all. i’d rather surf.
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took Asayama-san to fresh catch near my house. he ordered a big furikake salmon plate and some poke on the side. he ate everything so fast! superman needs his fuel. haha.
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i just bought me a pair of new pants. i love it!
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i wore it and when i opened the zipper, i saw something. it read “LUCKY YOU.” haha. lucky who? me? you? haha. imagine opening someones pants and see this? haha. now i love my new pants even more.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide