ok, hang on to your hats, surfboards, and houses! tropical darby is coming at us head on. expected to hit oahu tomorrow night so strong winds, heavy rain, and very dangerous conditions. i better get down and secure Mayuki!
surfed this morning with Kawato-san. super cool surfer experiencing hawaii for the first time. here is his first hawaiian wave! i wonder how it must feel to finally catch your first wave in hawaii? must be good yeah?
then i started getting brave with my camera trying to get a good close up shot of Kawato-san. check out this beautiful photo! BUT, as i was shooting this, i felt a surfboard go over my head!!!!
some idiot came flying down the line and almost killed me! i was so pissed! i swear you shouldn’t be surfing if you can’t control your own surfboard! but after i yelled at the guy, i thought to myself “if he didn’t fall over me, he would have killed Kawato-san!” so i guess that was good.
we were lucky to be alive. haha. awesome first surf session in hawaii Kawato-san! see you tomorrow!
then went surfing with Oshima-san in the afternoon. so stoked to see him back here in hawaii! such a cool guy that loves to surf. body in great shape, riding good waves, and getting better and better each wave.
tried to say far away from Oshima-san because i was still traumatized from almost getting killed in the morning. haha.
awesome job surfing today Oshima-san. see you tomorrow and everyday this week! by the time you leave, you will be ripping even harder.
