was a little worried when i drove down to the beach because of the storm that is nearby. but once we got out, i couldn’t believe how glassy it was! some nice waves for Oshima-san!
i still can’t believe it’s only been a year and a half and he’s surfing this good. big smiles!
and also catching good size waves. if you want to see a happy and positive surfer, just watch Oshima-san!
then it was Saori-san’s turn. she was on the beach looking a little tired. but as soon as she went in the water, everything changed. the happy smile once again!
and because i know how smart Saori-san is, i knew she would surf perfectly from the first wave. yes, she didn’t forget a thing. perfect surfing again!
so i put Saori-san on the smaller 9’6 after. i seriously thought she wouldn’t be able to ride it. but she proved me wrong. perfect again! an amazing and determined woman riding some nice size sets!
this is called “the calm before the storm.” look how glassy the ocean was! it was like a mirror.
went to eat lunch after with the 2 beautiful families. such a wonderful time with wonderful people.
then took Kawato-san surfing right after our dim sum digested. we surfed bowls practicing on the lefts all afternoon. i keep telling people that if your backside gets better, your frontside will get better too.
and if your backside gets better, you will start to love the best lefts on the island. we scored some great waves. then seen the storm coming and came in right before the heavy rain. great surfing Kawato-san and perfect timing!
see you guys again tomorrow for some real storm surfing!
