last night, the mayor went on the news telling everybody to “stay indoors today. read a book or watch a movie. just don’t go out.” those words don’t really sink in for a 20 years plus typhoon chaser. i knew there would be a window of opportunity and when it’s there, i’m taking it.
so i pick up Kawato-san this morning. we paddle out and it was glassy again! sun came out for a while and it was paradise.
Kawato-san has only been surfing for 1.5 years too. incredible how good he got in such a short time. love to watch his progression day by day.
super cool surfer! so stoked Kawato-san likes hawaii and is hooked on surfing. i’d say in another 1.5 years, he would be getting barreled!
we’ve been practicing surfing the lefts. why not when you’re surfing the best lefts on the island with nobody out right?
Oshima-san paddled out in the afternoon right when the storm came. it was super challenging but it’s days like this that separate the men from the boys. if you can surf the waves this afternoon, you can surf anything.
it’s my goal to get Oshima-san in a barrels really soon. and when that happens, he will quit golfing for sure. haha.
this is pure determination, and pure stoke!
only the hardcore would even think about paddling out today. you have to love surfing a lot to be this crazy to paddle out into the wild ocean. i’ve been doing this for 25 years and it never gets boring.
early this morning, there were two more hard core surfers in the water. Chifumi-san and Reina-san is as hard core as they come. nothing will stop these ladies from surfing. nothing.
