the government said “stay out of the ocean today because of dirty water!” the whole island of surfers listened except the 5 of us. if you know the ocean currents, winds, and tides, you can find clean water somewhere. pulled up to bowls this morning and no way! so drove around the corner in search of good waves and clean water.
kewalo’s was the spot! the water was clean and the waves were good! showed Oshima-san and Kawato-san the local way of surfing the most localize spot on the south shore.
new spot, new nerves. haha. i could tell they were nervous because it was something totally different. kind of wild if you think about it. i forgot to tell them about the big tiger sharks that patrol out there.
different spot, different lineup, different current, and different everything. luckily i surfed here since i was 13 years old. teaching the tricks to kewalos and telling the boys how lucky they are to surf this spot all to ourselves.
Oshima-san likes any challenge. all he wanted was bigger and bigger waves. so stoked to see him charging super hard!
good ride, good smile.
had to dodge some wood and debris, but overall, the water was clean. i still can’t believe nobody was out. it’s the first time in my life i surfed all morning at kewalos with no locals out. score.
Kawato-san figuring out the lineup. one of the hardest lineups to figure out. i’ve seen guys paddle out there for the first time and look lost at sea. if you surfed there before, you know what i’m talking about. just to catch a wave is a huge accomplishment.
then took the kids surfing in the afternoon when the water cleaned up at rock piles. again, nobody out. omg, we had a blast! i was so happy to come home and look at all the beautiful smiles in the photos. this is a dream for me to see kids this happy from surfing.
driving home into the blue sky. needed to wash the truck, and thank goodness that everybody was safe with this recent typhoon.
i surfed 2 rounds every single day for the past 39 days straight! omg, that’s a world record for me! no wonder i’m so black! thank goodness my teeth is white or you won’t be able to see me. haha. 10 more days of 2 rounds so 49 days will be my all time record. then i’m planning to take a couple days of vacation out of the sun. yeah!
