Happy Hawaii High Fives!

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most parents have to force their kids to surf. but yesterday kids were different. the 2 kids wanted to surf. they were so excited to get in the water. and once they were on the surfboard, the smiles came out so naturally.
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Ojiro-kun is only 7 years old and so brave! we were pretty far out in the ocean but he wasn’t scared at all. this is pure confidence! this kid believes in himself.
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you can’t make a kid smile unnaturally. nature will do it naturally. and this is as natural as it gets.
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since the water wasn’t totally clean, i told myself “let’s surf perfectly today. nobody falls so nobody goes into the water.” Ojiro-kun almost lost his balance but because he kept on looking forward, he regained it. lucky because if he went down, so was i. thank you Ojiro-kun for surfing just like you’re supposed to!
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and yes, every kid deserves a high five after a beautiful ride like that.
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then it was 8 year old Riko-chan’s turn. she was equally excited to surf. and from the first wave, she just stood right up. perfect balance!
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i can’t see the facial expressions from the back when i’m surfing, so when i came home and downloaded these photos, i was so happy to see these precious smiles.
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and yes, a high five for you too Riko-chan! thank you guys for not falling because i didn’t want to go in the water. in fact, we all came in and our hair was still dry. that is what you call perfect surfing! can’t wait to do it all over again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide