i pull up to the parking lot at 6am and everybody was standing around. nobody was out. government said again to stay out of the water. i knew the water was ok so we get ready and wax our boards. then a surfer girl standing in the parking lot said to me “have fun. i hope you don’t get sick!” i stopped, thought about it, then kept on walking to the beach. i learned from a very wise man that “silence is golden.” so i kept silence, but couldn’t stop thinking how inappropriate that comment was. i really wanted to turn around and say “have fun driving home, i hope you don’t get into a car accident.” now that i think about it, i’m glad i kept my silence because no negative person is worth a second of my time.
had an amazing time this morning with nobody out. Shintaro-san got the first wave into the golden sunrise.
Shintaro-san is planning a bali trip so i’m trying to get him prepared for it. and if he keeps surfing like this, he will be getting barreled soon!
Kawato-san got caught the most waves this morning of all his sessions. why not when nobody is out right?
then took Ojiro-kun out again. so stoked this kid is into surfing. he was so excited! such a cutie!
when we were surfing, i asked him, “tomorrow you will surf by yourself. can you do it?” he said “yes.” can’t wait for that.
totally perfect surfing technique. i’m sure this kid will be hooked on surfing just as much as his father is. dirty water? look and tell me where?
then it was mama’s turn. Saori-san going on a shorter board and feeling the ride.
amazing balance! great job Saori-san!
at one time, we had the whole lineup to ourselves this afternoon. i hope the government says to stay out of the water again tomorrow. haha.
last, to that girl who made that comment this morning, i hope you will become a more positive person. travel this world, learn about the ocean, and keep your negative comments to yourself. thank you.
