another awesome day surfing with this awesome family. Shintaro-san starting to turn, turn, and turn. soon, he will be doing off the lips on perfect indo waves. amazing improvements.
getting to a point to surf perfect indonesia waves takes steps by steps. that’s the goal and that goal is coming faster than i thought.
Ojiro-kun stole the show today. he told me he wanted to surf by himself yesterday, but i wasn’t sure if he was going to go through it. but once he came to the beach this morning, he looked more ready than ever.
look at the determination on his face. he didn’t only want to surf by himself, he wanted to do everything by himself. he actually paddled into this wave by himself. 7 years old? are you kidding me???
everybody in the ocean was cheering for him too! it was so cute!
and since he learned how to fall yesterday, he wasn’t scared at all. after this, he told me “i want to catch another one.”
so we paddled back out and got another one. and then another one. absolutely perfect surfing Ojiro-kun. you are one of the most bravest kid i’ve ever seen. keep on surfing dude!
then it was mama’s turn. Saori-san didn’t have the greatest session the day before so today was revenge. and revenge it was! perfect surfing all morning!
this will be Saori-san’s last wave for this hawaiian trip. and i know the feeling of surfing a last good wave oh too well. she will be smiling all the way to the airport.
great job Saori-san! and great job to the rest of the family. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
