yesterday morning was awesome. Kondo-san on her first shortboard experience in hawaii. like everybody else, all she wants to do is get better.
so it was boot camp. after a few adjustments, Kondo-san surfed perfectly.
and being able to ride the longest wave in your life is always rewarding.
and to surf in the clean water with the blue sky with the green diamond head is happiness.
Kondo-san wanted to eat somewhere that no tourists know. so i knew exactly the place for that! thank you for the awesome morning Kondo-san!
then went to pick up Yamada-san. omg, the waves were so good in the afternoon and not too many surfers out. we totally scored!
had boot camp with Yamada-san too. just a few adjustments and he was surfing on a whole different level.
good wave equals good smile.
Yamada-san didn’t like to surf lefts. so i told him “let’s go surf the lefts.” if you can go left, you can’t surf right. get it? once he mastered the lefts, we went over to the rights and he was doing his first ever cutbacks.
amazing progress Yamada-san! stoked i found my camera or this would all be lost memories. thank you for being patient with me for the 2 hours i was mentally traumatized. haha.
talk about traumatized. getting a 9.0M earthquake warning???? omg! i would have been crying. i’m so scared of earthquakes. the first one i ever felt was on Niijima Island. it was a tiny one but i crawled under the table. then my biggest one was in Sendai right after the tsunami. i really thought the world was going to end. anyway, tokyo is already on high alert for a big earthquake so this false warning must have been freaky! thank goodness it was wrong.
