good morning. 6:30am here on this perfect clear day in hawaii. the waves look like it came up a little from yesterday. bowls has chest high waves and it should be getting bigger by tomorrow. 2 guys out at rockpiles, 7 guys out at bowls, and 6 guys out at the park. the conditions are once again epic. light winds, clear skies, and fun waves. it’s going to be a nice day. north shore had some 3′ perfect waves yesterday and another north swell on the way. have a fun and safe day….
the Bra Boys are from Maroubra, Australia. these guys are the real deal surfers, and brothers. check out their film they made about their lives growing up in Maroubra. i didn’t know where Maroubra was or who the Bra Boys were until i went to the philippines in 2003. sunny abberton, mark matthews, andy king, and some others flew over for the contest at cloud 9. i met them the first day i got there and got to hang out with them for 2 weeks. they were some of the nicest surfers i’ve ever met. kind, well mannered, and freakin surfed so good. ever since then, i’ve been hearing a lot about the Bra Boys and the Alberton brothers. things i read in the papers and things from other people. some good, some bad. their life story is pretty interesting and i can’t wait to see the film. sunny alberton directed the film and their close friend russell crowe is narrating it. go check it out and see how hard core surfers grew up in a tough neighborhood and beat the odds….
this is a photo filipino photographer kathy chua sent me last year. director and bra boy sunny alberton is in the middle, to his right is his brothers andy king, mark matthews, matt griggs, and jay tompson. far left is aaron fridette. a keeper photo….
**check out the trailor to the BRA BOYS….
there was another earthquake and tsunami in indonesia today. it measured 8.2M and sent a 9′ tsunami to padang. yes, padang. the place where you fly in to and get on the boat for a mentawai trip. i’ve been there 3 times and one of the times, there was a huge earthquake there too. i can imagine what this girl is feeling. pretty freaking scary….
