Ocean Rider: Surf and Play!

213

Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.04.42 AM
when ever i go on trips, i try to maximize the day from sunrise to sunset. so if you come with me, be ready to wake up at 4:30am because i’m already up and ready to go. then when the trip is over, you can go home and tell yourself “i missed nothing!” and hey, why would you want to miss this?
Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.04.13 AM
Saito-san is still trying to adjust to my fast pace. a couple more trips together and he’ll be waking me up. haha.
Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.06.41 AM
surfing the east side anywhere in the world, you will awaken to mother nature shining a golden light into your face. shine on!
Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.12.00 AM
this river mouth left was so fun. my goofy foot friends back in hawaii would go crazy for this!
Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.11.27 AM
this is my way to start the morning. yoga surfing! deep breath and relax. namaste.
IMG_3224
i thought nobody in the world has more toys than i do, that’s until i met Mori-san. he even has a lucky dog named Emi!
IMG_3318
this is full country side. just so green and blue. just like hawaii.
IMG_3234
Mori-san has the coolest new boat. named Ocean Rider and is so fast! i just love the speed!
tomorrow will be our last day here so guess what time i’m waking up? yes, 3:30am. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide