after my 10 day vacation, i’m happier than ever to be back to hawaii and start working again. super refreshed, super recharged, and super stoked on life. i really needed that vacation!
right when we jumped into the water today, i seen this eagle ray swimming right under us.
i just love encountering nature like this.
i’ve known Takahashi-san for a very long time. and we have so many mutual friends in chigasaki. so it was super fun surfing and talking story this morning.
Takahashi-san requested to surf the best spot today. so that’s where we went! and guess what? nobody was out all morning long. we had it to ourselves for 2 hours!!! score.
perfect right hand point break. so stoked to see Takahashi-san catching so many waves.
nice bottom turn in the clean water and blue sky paradise. i still can’t believe nobody was out.
this place always barrels no matter what. looking from the side is cool.
and looking from the front is cool too. either way, a barrel is a barrel.
i can’t believe how much i love to surf. i just want more and more!
rode behind Takahashi-san to get this epic diamond head shot. love it!
then went to eat some pho after.
i had the chicken noodle soup. so delicious.
thank you Takahashi-san for the awesome surf session. i had so much fun catching up and laughing so much. we sure have some cool surf friends back in chigasaki. hope to see everyone soon.
