been surfing with Takei-san for a few years now. he’s a super good surfer from chiba that loves the challenge. we had all day so i already had plans in my mind. looked for a little spot to ourselves this morning to get a few fun waves. the waves were small but i know a spot that loves to barrel on the low tide. we paddled out and there was only 1 tourist out.
unlike the spot i surfed yesterday, this spot is much thicker. rounder barrels and 2x the power. i usually don’t go out here but since nobody was out, why not? look at this beautiful barrel!
the reason it barrels is because it’s very shallow. one mistake and you will hit the reef for sure. experts only.
Takei-san warmed up on a few shoulder high waves.
my first 3 waves were barrels. this was my first one.
this was my second one. i just love this view!
and this was my third one. this spot was probably the only spot barreling today. then all the local boys must have seen us getting all the good waves so it got really crowded after.
so we paddle down and surf another wave. absolute perfection!
nice cutback Takei-san! good job!
we surfed for almost 4 hours in the morning. then we had lunch. then it was time to look for something a little more challenging. headed to the east side because the high surf warning is up. we pulled up to this spot i haven’t surfed for 15 years. it was big, dangerous, big, and dangerous. a true challenge for any expert surfer. we had a session both of us will never forget! stay tuned for part 2.
