Busy Monday Holiday

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this morning was so crowded when we first went out. then towards the end, it got empty. this is what surfing is all about. talking story, meeting people, and being happy. welcome to the happy hawaiian surfing world!
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Hashimoto-san is hooked on long boarding. catching more waves and riding it much longer. i’ve seen his confidence level go up a level every single day. now he’s charging big waves like this and looking so relaxed.
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his backside is getting much better too. and to think he was going straight just a few days ago. incredible progress!
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always happy to see Aoi out practicing. i love this kid.
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we were super hungry so went to eat some mexican food with a horchata. the best combination after a great surf session! good surfing again Hashimoto-san. see you tomorrow morning! bigger waves and bigger smiles!
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diamond head was a mess this afternoon. what we surfed was much better. scored again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide