99 out of 100 times i wash the truck, it rains right after. so after spending hours and hours sweating yesterday outside, clean as can be, it starts to rain. i have no idea why mother nature is doing this to me? you can just call me “Rainman.”
Hashimoto-san just loving the big waves! caught some big ones this morning and looking so confident! boot camp is working big time!
and now turning and riding the waves where it’s supposed to be ridden. must feel awesome!
so after a few days on the longboard training and getting the basics perfected, Hashimoto-san jumped on the short board and surfed it perfectly. instead of taking about a year to come to this level, he’s done it in just 5 days. amazing progress.
thank you Hashimoto-san for the awesome surf session. now you’re as black as me. haha. see you tomorrow morning before your flight back to japan. surf and fly. that’s my life!
and yes, it’s september and we get a special late summer swell. should continue for the next 4 days. perfect swell, perfect conditions, and perfect life. Gerry’s Point.
