World is Brown!

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i went to make myself happy this morning, and how to make myself happy is to surf in clean water. it’s unbelievable how dirty the water is! so shocking to see people surfing at bowls!!! it’s beyond dirty.
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and the dirty water is spreading almost to waikiki. so i did a u turn and went the opposite way. and guess what? i passed by big rights and the water was super clean!
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clean water and super good waves. perfect rights and only a few guys out. we all were surprised how good the waves were! i surfed for much longer than i wanted too because it was too good to go in. so stoked!
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then came back past bowls and could smell the stinky water. logs, rubbish, dirt, bacteria, and dead animals. yucky!
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there is a new rule on Mayuki. if you weight more than 70 kilos or 160 lbs, you aren’t allowed to sit on the front seats. my friend just sat on it and broke it again. i guess it’s not made for heavy people. each time it breaks, it costs $100 and 5 hours of labor. i missed the gym and yoga for that today. so yeah, the new rule is enforced after i fix it tomorrow.
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running around finding parts takes most of my time. hawaii is an island so if you want something, you have to get it shipped to you. and that can take forever. i don’t have forever.
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look at the forecast! heavy rain all week! but don’t believe it because today was as hot as it gets. super sunny and i’m totally burnt!
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and speaking of brown water, take a look at china! typhoon hitting it right now.
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typhoons amaze me. the power of the winds is crazy. i’ve got blown around a few times and it’s pretty scary.
anyway, tomorrow is another day. i guarantee bowls side will still be dirty. better look around and look for clean water. tomorrow’s a different day so won’t know till i get out into the ocean and see it for myself. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide