omg, i left my house at 8am this morning and just came home. it’s 10pm. i surfed 2 rounds for total 7 hours. watched some volleyball after, then had dinner with special friends, then going to post this and sleep because i have a very long day again tomorrow.
met the coolest people again today. this group from Kyoto made me laugh all day long. just having fun and surfing some great waves. thanks Tomomi-san, Megumi-san, and Ryota-san!
Megumi-san caught some really good waves. super energetic and always happy paddling back out after a long ride. in fact, she caught the biggest wave of the day! a very tough girl!
Ryota-san’s been surfing for many years. he’s super powerful and super good at surfing. i was surprised to see such a muscular japanese guy ripping up the waves.
Tomomi-san surfed for the first time in her life today. i couldn’t believe she stayed out the full 3 hours this morning. she caught so many good waves!
yeah, this is what you call quality time. just spending time in the ocean with wonderful people.
Ryota-san is a rugby player in japan. he’s one of the biggest japanese guys i’ve ever met. strong athlete and strong surfer.
ate some pho after and had more laughs. i get so stoked to meet surfers from Kyoto because each and every one is hard core. you have to be hard core when you have no beach near you, and love to surf this much. thank you guys for the wonderful morning! hope to see you again!
afternoon story coming tomorrow. goodnight for now!
