i picked up Nakagami-san and Kanazawa-san up early this morning. i knew the waves were going to be big, but i also knew they were both capable of survival.
Nakagami-san was very nervous in the beginning. he’s staying right in front at the prince hotel so he knows how big the waves were. when we were paddling out, he wouldn’t even talk to me. haha. but once he caught a few waves, the nerves settled.
Kanazawa-san caught some super good ones. the medium open rights and surfing it really good.
then the waves started to get bigger and bigger! solid overhead and powerful.
so i told Nakagami-san, “ok, it’s time to practice not being nervous. and the only way is to charge big waves! so don’t go on anything unless it’s over your head.” and when you have a loud guy like me yelling in your ear “GO, GO, GO!!!!” you will go. haha.
and i was yelling in Kanazawa-san’s ear too. i must have yelled “GO” about 400 times today! haha.
and when you charge big waves and survive, all the nerves will disappear. Nakagami-san sure wasn’t smiling like this earlier in the morning. haha.
beautiful waves and beautiful rides! i’m sure this is probably one of the biggest waves in Nakagami-san’s life.
Kanazawa-san has a good surfing style. and riding a 5’8 like this takes a lot of skill. awesome bottom turn!
and on our last wave, i saw Kanazawa-san bottom turn on a nice wave and so a super good backside off the lip! he was stoked!
we laughed so much again today. if you were at ala moana shopping center, you would have probably heard us laughing so loud. haha.
great surfing and great paddling. on Nakagami-san’s watch, he logged in 7km of paddling in our 2.5 hour session! OMG! anyway, so stoked to meet these cool surfer boys! thank you guys for the unforgettable morning session!
