had an awesome surf session yesterday afternoon with Yamakawa-san. it’s been 30 years and now he’s back into the action! he started back up 2 years ago and he hasn’t forgotten a thing.
and he caught over 20 waves! so stoked!
Yamakawa-san also surfed into the rainbow! look how beautiful it was!
thank you Yamakawa-san for the wonderful time. i’m stoked you surfed so good! take care and keep on surfing!
right when we paddled out to my secret spot yesterday, i seen a huge shark jump out of the shallow water as it attacked something on the surface. i said “omg, dolphin.” Maki-san said “hey, dolphins don’t jump in that shallow water. then i said “omg, monk seal.” Maki-san said “monk seals cannot jump.” then it went silent for a while. we all knew what it was. and i’ve never seen such a big shark jump out of the water like that in my life. it was beautiful! and yes, we kept on surfing.
Toda-san took some cool drone footage. Maki-san was the main star as she caught the most waves and did the most turns and funny faces. haha.
