hello from chiba. been here for a couple of days and loving it. the weather is perfect, the water is cool, and i can actually surf. went for 2 rounds yesterday and even though i couldn’t do a turn, i had a blast. i came here yesterday morning at 1am, had a few beers with jasmine and hide-san till 3am. woke up at 6am and surfed till lunch. came back for an afternoon nap. jasmine lives on the top of the mountain so even though it’s 100 degrees outside, it’s pretty cool here. so i lay down for my nap on the cool wood floor. i ask naoka to turn up the ceiling fans up a little higher because the breeze was feeling good. naoka didn’t know what buttons he was pushing but i trusted him because everything was in japanese. so i lay down peacefully and fall asleep. 20 minutes later, i woke up in a pool of sweat and i was feeling weird. it was so frickin hot!! the wind was cool but i was feeling so dam hot. i just couldn’t figure it out. i couldn’t go back to sleep and what made it worst was naoka was snoring on the sofa next to me. come to find out, naoka turned off the fans, and turned the floor heater to HIGH. oh my gosh.!!!! i was sleeping on a heated floor in this burning humid weather. what a nightmare… i was pissed but all i can do is laugh about it now….
**chiba is like the surfing capital of japan. the waves are consistent, they hold most contests here, and the level of surfing is probably the highest throughout japan. went to shidashita yesterday and gosh, the kids were ripping. the oakley junior pro starts today and runs into the weekend. seems like all of japan’s talent is in chiba right now. it was pretty cool to see…
yesterday in the evening was perfect. the lighting was good, the surfers were ripping, so i went to grab my camera….
had a bunch of JPSA pro’s out but the groms stole the show…. check out how small this kid is. this is okinawa’s kazubo-san’s 9 year old son from okinawa. it’s so funny because it’s the first time he’s surfing out of okinawa. okinawa doesn’t have beach breaks so this kid must be loving it. he looked so stoked…
gosh, i forgot this kid’s name… he’s a little dove rider and was catching the most waves out there yesterday. he was like a wave magnet. just by watching him, you could tell that he had some kind of connection with the ocean. plus he rips!!!
kairi has so much energy. he surfed 3 session and skateboarded in the hot sun too. along with making trouble to me all day. this kid’s classic….
this is reika and friend. japan surfer girls…
**FULL GALLERY COMING UP TODAY ON GO-NAMINORI.COM….
**and wanted to thank jasmine, hide-san, zuccho, kenji, naoka, and jacksan for the great time last night. the sunset was awesome, the mexican food was awesome, and the vibe was awesome. an awesome night with awesome people… mahalo…
