BELIEVE!

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i remember going to queen’s one morning and telling the moniz kids “hey, let’s go surf kewalos!” they all said “no way, we love baby queen’s.” none of the moniz kids have ever went to kewalos’ before because the wave were too heavy, too shallow, too many locals, and too many sharks. i look at seth and say “seth, come with uncle!” he nodded his head, i threw him in my car, and he didn’t say a word all the way to kewalo’s. he was super nervous as he was sitting in the front seat of my car barely looking over the dashboard. it was classic. i was laughing inside so hard. we paddled out, he paddled into his first wave, and the rest is history! it was no more queen’s as kewalo’s became their home break. seth moniz was just 7 years old.
so when i got the emails, texts, and phone calls about seth becoming the U.S National Champion yesterday, i almost cried. all the years of this kids hard work, all the years of this kids genuine personality, all the years of his kindness, and all the years of his big brothers picking on him, seth got what he deserves. SETH MONIZ IS A TRUE CHAMPION!
my sister, tony, and everybody in our family is proud of seth. me, i’m prouder than proud. i can’t explain how happy i am for this kid, and for hawaii. california is a hard place to win a contest because the wave is totally different. locals there usually dominate the competitions but to see seth take on the best and beat the best in their home break, i’m lost for words.
this is the first time i’m writing a letter to seth:
hey seth, i’m so proud of you. what your accomplishing in surfing is awesome. i wish i was there to carry you off the beach with the rest of the hawaiians. you shine when you win, and also shine when you lose. that’s important. your a great kid and it’s your turn to shine in the surfing world. going to california and beating all those famous blonde hair kids making six figure salaries at their home break must have been rewarding. keep cool, keep on surfing, and big things will come. and even though your coming off a big win, i know that free diving and spearfishing is in your mind. haha. am i right? when you get back, let’s go again. until then, enjoy this big win, represent hawaii good, and congratulations kid. we’re all waiting for you in hawaii. uncle kirby

here is one of seth’s first waves at kewalo’s. the cutest surfer kid ever? i think so.

hey girls, KEEP AWAY!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide