My Private Photographer

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so happy to come home and eat dinner with Mateus. it’s not good manners to eat and play but i always try to play with him while he eats. haha.
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i just needed to get away from the people this afternoon so i went to my secret spot. a place i can always be myself, and by myself.
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my private photographer was on the beach coaching me into waves. when ever there would be a set, she would yell “outside!!!” then i would paddle outside and get the set. so easy!
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then after i catch a wave, she would yell “yeah!” then i would paddle back out laughing to myself. why? because she reminds me exactly of me. thank you Mia F. for the amazing coaching and photos!
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and want to thank Carter for the Don Julio! omg, i need help drinking all this tequila!
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and want to thank Toda-san and Takami-san for the Pale Ale. this is my favorite beer now!
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and want to thank Hikaru-san for the Jacksan. Jacksan is my best friend!
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and want to thank Maki-san for the MiiR thermos. this supposed to be able to hold carbonated drinks in for 3 days! perfect for my Jack/Coke! haha.
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and want to thank myself for my present to myself. my new iPhone 7. score!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide