Real Ibaraki Surfers

229

screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-37-55-pm
omg, today was amazing! another 7 hours of fun in the sun!
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-29-17-pm
surfed this morning with Sasaki-san. the waves at bowls were really good right when we got out. perfect lefts and rights.
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-29-52-pm
so happy to see Sasaki-san ripping. this is the 3rd time in the past 4 years we surfed together. getting better and better.
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-36-43-pm
then the locals started coming out. i wonder why? yeah, because the waves were perfect! so i told Sasaki-san “let’s go somewhere else.”
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-37-21-pm
we found our own spot and it was only us and 2 of my other friends out. we took turns and watched Sasaki-san getting wave after wave. totally sharing the hawaiian moment.
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-38-08-pm
awesome surfing Sasaki-san! thank you for checking out my blog and all the recent posts throughout the years. i can’t believe i posted over 5000 blogs!!! omg!
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-38-41-pm
Sasaki-san told me he started to sleep early and wake up early too. 9pm down, and 4am up. and now his body, health, mind, and soul feels so fresh every morning. i’m so happy of him! And Meiko-san joining us for the healthy lunch. Meiko-san told me she really wants to go to taiwan. Sasaki-san always wants to come to hawaii. so guess what?
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-2-38-55-pm
i took Meiko-san to taiwan tea! we drank tea and i told her “now you don’t have to go to taiwan!” haha. such a cool couple from ibaraki that enjoys hawaii and the laughter we have! thank you for the beautiful morning!
screen-shot-2016-10-11-at-3-12-31-pm
then went surfing with Uemini-san and Hirata-san till the sun set into the beautiful sea. more photos coming tomorrow.
img_5061
came home tonight and Mateus was waiting for more presents. yeah, i called him on the way home and said “hey, i have more presents for you! you know what to do right?” he said “yes, i will be waiting with my eyes closed.” haha.
going sleep late because have to go shopping now for tomorrow. sleep late, get up early, and explore!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide