Challenge: Beauty vs. Beast

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before the molokai trip, i knew the winds were going to be 30mph strong. one part of me was saying, “no,” and the other part was saying “go!” usually for me, “go” will win. so i called a few boating friends and they said i’m crazy. they said no way they would even attempt that channel crossing with winds like that. but for me, i’m pretty wild, and so is Mayuki. this will be the ultimate challenge for her, me, and my crew.
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there were some solid 10′ swells in the channel breaking over the boat at times. rolling us upwards, sidewards, and even backwards. on the way, i was trying to fly over waves because that seemed safer. and on the way back, i was surfing up and down waves. sometimes looking straight down huge faces. i was excited, and the girls were screaming!
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i’ve ridden hundreds of boats, but i have never ever been on a boat this stable. Mayuki was custom built for rough hawaiian seas, and she proved herself strong. i would like to congratulate my crew for holding on for their lives and trusting me behind the wheel. not even a day at disneyland could have topped all the excitement we had.
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gosh, this was my 5th time this year i went to molokai. each year is getting more and more and i could totally see myself living there. check out this old school restaurant in the cutest little town up on the mountain.
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last time we went there, we ordered the pork chop special.
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Toda-san loved every single bite! this is hawaiian style plate lunch. can’t wait to eat there again.
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last time i was driving though sandy beach, i seen something very interesting.
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this girl stretched out some line between two coconut trees and started walking back and forth.
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acrobat in the smallest bikini! free hawaiian entertainment!
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last, Marissa is only 14 years old and can dive pretty dam deep. her first trip to molokai and she was loving every moment. she speared her first fish, she sang us songs, she surfed some nice waves, and she dove in the deep blue so gracefully. great job Marissa!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide