surfed some perfect waves this morning with Oku-san. he’s been surfing for 7 years and wanted to get better. it’s his first time ever being coached so i was so thrilled to be the one. after a few adjustments, he was surfing perfectly. he couldn’t ride for long, now he can. he couldn’t do a cutback, now he can. look at this beautiful wave!
after his first long wave, this is the magical smile only surfing can bring out. seeing this is like a major reward for me. this is why i love my job so much.
another day a boot camp! great job Oku-san! your life will never be the same!
if you’ve been surfing for a long time and keep on falling, something is wrong. i can help you fix it in 20 minutes. just ask Oku-san. after his 3rd wave, he never fell. just so simple!
we both were so hungry so we went to eat a mega roast pork plate lunch.
want to congratulate Takahashi-san for having the courage to start the 2 month pilgrimage in shikoku. i hope i have a chance to fly up there to support his mission. but there is no way i’m walking. haha. good luck Takahashi-san! i’m cheering for you!
Who was Andy Irons? this movie is going to be amazing. watch it and learn the real story of Andy Irons.
