wow! another 7 hour surfing day! waves and weather were absolutely perfect!
surfed this morning with Yoshino-san and Nagashi-san. both wanted to join the boot camp so it was training from the beginning.
Nagashi-san after a few adjustments. surfing perfectly and riding so many good waves.
Yoshino-san after a few adjustments too. super stoked on his first ever super long wave.
and the paddle back out expression says it all.
somewhere over the rainbow! Nagashi-san enjoying the hawaiian moment.
Yoshino-san hooked on the longboard. i couldn’t believe how many super long waves he rode this morning.
and the perfect ala moana view for Nagashi-san. must feel really great!
saw Jerry on the outside looking for fresh tako.
the boys wanted to eat tako poke after so it was off to my new favorite poke stop. totally satisfied. see you boys again tomorrow morning. get ready for day 2 of boot camp!
then surfed with Yamaguchi-san this afternoon till sunset. gosh, i was at the beach from 7:30am to 6:30pm. my skin is burnt, but my soul is happy!
i spent 2 hours on the computer early this morning looking for my next destination. trying to follow the swell. my vacation starts in 2 days and i still can’t figure out where to go. been making some international calls, trying to book flights, looking for something new, but can’t figure it out yet. don’t want terrorist, don’t want zika, and don’t want trouble. so it’s getting harder and harder to find the perfect travel destination these days. oh well, if i have to get stuck in hawaii, i won’t be complaining.
