there was only one place in town yesterday afternoon that had chest high perfect waves. a place that catches the east wind swell. everywhere else was flat, but not were we surfed.
Yamaguchi-san knows and surfs with all the boys at Wavy Surf. so a friend of the Wavy crew is a friend of mine. we surfed for almost 4 hours straight and i couldn’t believe how empty it was. perfect for us to practice!
Yamaguchi-san told me he doesn’t like to surf backside. so guess what? i took him to surf only backside. i explained to him that if you can’t surf backside good, you can’t surf frontside good. so we practiced doing some backside cutbacks.
after a few waves, he was getting it down perfectly.
and when you get it down perfectly, you will smile perfectly. Yamaguchi-san told me after “i like surfing backside now!” i told him “now, your frontside surfing will improve a lot. just wait and see.”
dream afternoon session. great job Yamaguchi-san! please say hi to all the boys at Wavy Surf!
surfing into sunset was amazing. the best way to end the perfect long day of surfing and laughing.
i checked Myanmar, Mongolia, Turkey, Morocco, Spain, Namibia, Peru, and even Bolivia. no tickets available because so last minute. so now i’m thinking of just going to Japan and eating sushi? or hunting in Molokai? maybe i’ll do both? haha.
