good morning. wow, first time i slept in so good. it’s 9am here in japan and sweating already. going to take a cold shower and head out. check the waves, which will probably be flat. maybe go for a swim? go back sleep? i don’t know. anyway, have a nice day…
**it’s always good to travel around with my camera because even on the smallest days, you can get some pretty nice photos. photos that will last a lifetime…
this is yamamoto-san. i met yamamoto-san when i first came to japan. he’s always been kind to me and when ever i see him, he’s always got this big smile on his face. a smile like the same one in this photo. super happy cool guy….
sometimes you shoot on the best days and can’t get a good shot. and sometimes you shoot on the smallest days and score. i like this photo because of the way this surfer is flowing with the wave. he ate shit right after but who cares? as long as you got the shot right???
keito was this little kid i met about 7 years ago. he was staying at the dropout house in kamakura when i went for a abalone/sazae dive with the late edo ogawa-san. the 3 of us swam out from inamura and i remember this little grom holding his breath for super long. i was impressed and even though i haven’t seen him surf before that, i knew he was going to be good. you could just tell by the way he connected with the ocean. it’s good to see keito rising to the top of his class. by the way, sick photo….
if your a grom and want to surf good, move to chiba and surf shidashita everyday. japanese pro champions like shuji kasuya, takao kuga, zuccho, fukuchi, izuki tanaka, and hideyoshi tanaka are some of the guys from there. check out all the groms out there chasing their dreams…. cool….
this is kent nishiya. kent is from california and is 15 years old. he’s a pretty cool kid that surfs good. wanted to say hi to his mom miyoko over there in california… hi…
