One Life

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in my life, nothing is planned. i just go with the flow, just like riding a wave. so when i get invited to a dinner in tokyo, i didn’t even hesitate.
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took a flight to ginza! the high life mecca of japan.
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i must have been to ginza over 30 times and guess what? i’ve never ever bought anything from there. haha. i just people watch and window shop.
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there is a restaurant in ginza that is probably the best in the world. i can’t even explain how good it is. caviar and champagne.
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then steak and wine.
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then truffle and pasta. we ended up eating, drinking, and laughing a lot.
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then got up early and walked the streets in tokyo. trying to look for a taxi.
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got to shinagawa station and it was totally empty. i actually caught the first train of the day.
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lucky the trains have english these days. when i first came here, no english at all.
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as we sat later in a bar talking story, Inaida-san told me “just remember, you only have one life.” i’m always inspired by this kind and intelligent gentleman. and that’s the very reason i do the things i do. i live everyday like it’s my last. i meet my friends and cherish the moment as it’s the last, i take every breath as it’s my last. i don’t care what people think about me. i just care about my family, my friends, and my life. might sound selfish to many, but not to me. everybody deserves to be happy and do whatever it takes to get you there. i’m in a great place in my life now. and i want to thank Inaida-san and Yuki-san for teaching me how to live the life i want to live. you guys look very healthy and happy. thank you also for the amazing night of food, drinks, and laughs. hope to see you guys again soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide