Pure Hinduism

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drove another 2.5 hours deeper into indonesia. arrived at the most amazing place. i’m up at 4am right now listening to the muslim chanting outside. so cool! indo is one of the most spiritual places in the world.
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no matter where i travel to, i’m always up in the dark getting ready for a surf.
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checked the waves yesterday morning in front. pretty good but decided to walk down the beach to surf a perfect right. it was only us and one other surfer out all morning. scored!
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came back to our beach front resort. such a beautiful green place.
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check out my shower room.
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pretty cool to have an outdoor shower. wish i had one of these back home.
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checked the waves again. still super fun but decided instead to start our next journey to a place twice as far away.
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on the way, we made a few stops. walking up the hundred stair temple. such a lovely photo of a couple that has been married for 40 years i still don’t know how Atsuko-san did it. haha.
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found some new secret beach breaks. next time i’m here i’ll rent a motorcycle and ride along this long stretch of beach and surf a spot all to myself.
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we walked around the sacred hindu temple of a thousand gods.
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when ever i’m getting a relaxing massage somewhere, i hear a shutter sound all of a sudden. i look up and see Kimura-san taking a photo with the biggest smile on his face.
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i came on this trip to go with the flow. the flow has been super amazing. now i’m at an onsen? yeah, a hot spring! been jumping in it all day yesterday and getting ready to take a plunge right now. why not when you have it right in your room? then going to charter a boat to check out this magical island off the coast. still going with the flow!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide