Dog and Bird Shit.

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on the day of the big south swell, i was so excited to surf. i parked my car, waxed up my board, took one step toward the beach, and i smelt something funny? something stink! i looked down and “oh my gosh!” i stepped on dog shit! i looked around to see if anybody saw. thank goodness, no. i surf, and i get barreled. lucky? don’t really know.

then the next day i park my clean car, surf, and come back seen 100 bird shits on my car. all over! what’s going on?

i stopped by in shikoku on my way out of japan in may. i was amazed on how many people were surfing. things looked like a normal day in japan. it was kind of hard for me to comprehend just coming from tohoku. i got my camera out and shot some photos. CHECK THEM OUT ON GO-NAMINORI.COM.

last, there are still over 100,000 people living like this in japan. even though i’m trying to move on with my normal life here in hawaii, the images i witnessed in tohoku are still in my head, the radiation problem is still bothering me, and a part of me will never be the same until japan fully recovers. in the media around the world, japan is almost forgotten. please keep on supporting japan. mission 4 is coming up and i’m still having a hard time finding information on building playgrounds for the children. if you have any information on how we can make it happen, please email me. thank you.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide