after we checked out of sex resort, we packed up the boards and headed back. heard earlier the waves were flat so we pretty much gave up on surfing for the day.
then as we were driving, we seen this perfect little wave breaking right off the road. so we slam on the breaks and stop. nobody out!!!
watched a little more and it was getting bigger right in front of our eyes. we take the boards off the roof, wax up, and head out.
kind of crazy how you have to get out at some places. our first time surfing it so you have to use your experience when it comes to this. i’m keeping one eye on the ocean, and the other on Kimura-san. we get out safely.
and we took turns surfing wave after wave. and it kept on getting bigger and bigger. some head high sets with totally perfect conditions.
Kimura-san is going to Mentawai in a few days so here he is warming up. the two of us having our own private mentawai moment.
surfed till sunset. really didn’t want to come in but we had a long drive ahead of us.
Yasin strapped the board up again and we were on our way. i’d say we had a bonus surf session. totally unexpected and totally scored.
finally making it back to the city for our fresh crab dinner. i was looking forward to this.
we picked the biggest ones.
back in hawaii, we call these samoan crabs. so sweet and juicy!
i can’t explain to you how good it was. once we started eating, everybody stopped talking. it was eating in silence. all you could see is happiness!
then came back to our hotel. just love walking in the door to a setup like this.
i love you? didn’t they know i was alone? seeing this could make a person get pretty lonely. haha.
rest and relax time.
