Changu Memories

226

img_6144
Kimura-san found the perfect villa where he always stays at. super nice rooms, quite, and very good breakfast. this is where we have breakfast in the morning before we decide what to do.
img_6146
my foot was sore after i cut it on the rocks. super sore when i was walking around, but once i got on my surfboard, it felt fine. just have to take good care of it because it’s very easy to get an infection in bali.
img_6150
headed to changu on my last day. just wanted to get wet.
img_6195
everything in changu changed except for this little restaurant. it was here from the beginning, and glad to see it still around. had thousands of memories right here!
img_6153
the waves were supposed to be small but once we pulled up, the sets started to roll in. super stoked!
img_6161
tried out Mike Woo’s new model. fast and perfect for changu.
img_6164
Kimura-san needs motivation to surf when he doesn’t want to surf. but when he’s with me, he has to surf. there is no way i’m taking no for an answer. but every time after we come in, he’s a very happy man.
img_6186
living in indonesia paradise.
img_6223
ate some yakiniku and got dropped off at the airport. i was so stinky! stinky for the 27 hour travel time back to hawaii. spending 2 nights on the airplane isn’t that fun. i feel sorry for the people sitting around me.
img_6227
as soon i got on the airplane at 12:30am, i slept like a baby.
img_6230
and woke up to the beautiful sunrise just off japan.
img_6233
i like to check out this map because i look for new destinations. now i’m very interested in going to russia. that’s if we don’t go to war before that happens.
img_6234
arrived to kansai airport and went straight to my breakfast restaurant. 12 long hours here. finally time to think about all the fun i had this trip. it went by so fast!
anyway, see you back in hawaii!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide