day 4 of boot camp! super good waves again for Nao-san! so stoked to be surfing and talking story with my apple genius!
every wave, i’m analyzing everything. do you see something that needs adjustment in this photo? look good at Nao-san’s left foot. it’s a little too much on the left side of the surfboard. thus, making turning left easier, and turning right more difficult.
so after that wave, i explain to her what to fix. then once she fixed it, it’s perfect!
this is exactly where you want your feet on the board each wave. then it will making turning anyway very easy. great job and awesome smile Nao-san!
when i take people surfing, i hardly catch any waves. the reason is i want to give the best waves to whoever i take surfing. then the rest i leave for the locals. but there are times when i’m on the outside by myself and a perfect wave comes directly to me. then i must go!
omg, went to try out this new ramen shop today. it was freaking amazing! i’ll be here at least 3x a week.
thank you again for a wonderful day Nao-san. see you bright and early tomorrow morning for another beautiful day of surfing!
