Mixed Avocado Day

217

opps, forgot to post this from the other day. sorry.
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we’re entering the winter months so everything is unpredictable. the winds, weather, waves, and conditions will change day by day. you just have to know where to go. just please don’t follow me. haha.
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we were surfing the biggest wave in town yesterday. after paddling around and around, we finally found the perfect ride! nice wave Abe-san! i can’t believe it’s your third time to hawaii this year? haha.
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surfing in the rain. i just love the water hitting my face as i ride a wave. here is Abe-san waiting patiently.
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and when there’s wind, there’s usually sun. and when the sun come out, it’s so dam beautiful.
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Diana and Sherrie are hard core surfer girls. no matter what, they’ll be out every single day of the year. i respect surfers like that.
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spotted a roxy girl out yesterday doing a nice cross step. such a beautiful moment!
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check out this wave about to break on my board when i’m riding a wave. the ocean is so amazing!
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Abe-san wanted to eat a healthy sandwich. i knew exactly where to go.
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the best mixed avocado sandwich on the island. maybe in the world.
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super fresh, and super healthy. thank you Abe-san for the wonderful healthy surfing day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide