super stoked to surf with Iuchi-san yesterday afternoon. super good surfer from Bob Surf in tokushima on the beautiful island of shikoku. when we paddled out at 2pm, the waves kept on coming and coming!
and this one was Iuchi-san’s longest left in his life. after he kicked out, he was smiling big time.
he went too fast for me to keep up. haha. but look how perfect this wave is!
awesome surf day Iuchi-san. our 4 hour session was great! thank you and keep on surfing.
the waves got really good for about 2 hours straight. set after set perfectly peeling long lefts. we scored!
one of only two locals out. looks like summer yeah!
the other local was my friend Reid. racing the barrel! look at that beautiful lip coming down. i love photos like this! anyway, hope we get some more summer days in the winter again. see you out there!
